Focus
Autumnal display amid the dense forest.
Depth of Field: Crafting Visual Stories with Focus
Besides affecting how much light reaches your sensor, both the lens' aperture (opening) and its focal length (mm) will affect how much of your scene will be in focus. This is called the depth of field (DoF).
Depth of field (DoF) is like the magic wand that controls how much of your photo is in sharp focus, creating a sense of depth and dimension. It's all about deciding what's going to be crystal clear and what's going to be beautifully blurred.
When you use a wide-open aperture, represented by a low f-stop number like f/1.8, you're creating a shallow depth of field. In this case, only a small slice of your scene will be in sharp focus, while everything in front of and behind that slice will gradually blur into a pleasing background. This is fantastic for isolating your subject from distracting surroundings or when you want to emphasize a particular detail, like a flower petal or a person's eyes in a portrait. It's like highlighting a single sentence in a book, making it stand out while the rest fades into the background.
Kris eying a composition with his trusty 35mm Olympus.
This image uses a wider aperture of f/6 and a very long focal length of 350mm thus creating a very narrow depth of field that has Kris' face/camera in focus but the background fades into blurriness.
Lenses with wide apertures such as f/1.8 and longer focal lengths of 135mm are the grail of portrait photography. The ultimate background blur machines.
Conversely, when you opt for a smaller aperture, represented by a higher f-stop number like f/16, you're increasing the depth of field. This means that a larger portion of your scene, both near and far, will be in sharp focus. It's perfect for landscape shots or when you want to capture intricate details in a macro photograph. Imagine it as reading an entire page of a book without missing any words; everything from the foreground to the background is crisp and clear.
Skuleskogen National Park in its full beauty from the sea to the high coast, Sweden.
This image uses f/13 as its f-number which is usually a great starting point for landscapes that have elements ranging close to the camera - such as the person - and far away from the camera - like the remote islands.
As you can see sharpness is relatively preserved both in the foreground and background elements. If we had used a smaller f-number such as f/4 most either the subject or the far away landscape would be blurry. This will depend on where we focus the camera. Ideally, for landscapes you'll pick a higher f-number and focus somewhere in between the foreground and background (i.e. the midground).
Focus: Unlocking Sharpness
Focus is your camera's way of achieving sharpness and clarity in your photos. It's like the magical key that brings the scene into clear view. When your camera achieves perfect focus, it's as if the curtain rises on a stage, revealing all the details and subtleties of your subject. Without proper focus, your images may appear blurry or lack the fine detail that makes a photograph captivating. In essence, understanding and mastering focus is fundamental to the art of photography.
Camera focus is affected by several factors, such as the distance of the subject from the camera, the aperture of the lens, the contrast and brightness of the scene, and the movement of the subject or the camera. To effectively use camera focus, you should pay attention to how your camera is selecting the focus for you.
Auto vs. Manual Focus
Photography offers you the choice between two main focus modes: Auto-Focus (AF) and Manual Focus (MF), each with its strengths. Auto-Focus is like having an experienced guide who quickly locks onto the subject for you, making it ideal for fast-paced situations or when you need precision without manually turning the focus ring. Great for general use and tracking moving subjects through the image.
On the other hand, Manual Focus puts you in the driver's seat, allowing for total control and artistic expression. It's akin to steering your own ship, where you can fine-tune the focus to match your creative vision or make sure that the camera doesn't focus and something you don't want it to. It's great for landscapes or still scenes.
Use manual focus when autofocus fails or when you want more control over the focus. Sometimes, autofocus may not work well in low-light, low-contrast, or complex scenes, such as a night sky, a white wall, or a busy street.
This young tree is so thin that the camera autofocus was struggling with focusing on the parts I wanted. The easies and more sure way to get the photo I wanted was to switch to manual focus, zoom in on my back screen and make sure I nail the focus myself.
The Many Faces of Auto-Focus
Auto-Focus isn't a one-size-fits-all concept; it comes in various flavors, like choosing a dance style for different rhythms.
Single-Point AF: Precision Spotlighting
Ideal for still subjects and precision framing, single-point AF is like having a precision spotlight on your subject. In this mode, you select a single focus point, allowing you to pinpoint exactly where you want your camera to achieve focus. It's perfect for still subjects where you want to emphasize a specific element, like capturing the delicate details of a flower or highlighting the expressive eyes in a portrait. Also, great for fast paced situations as you'll just need to aim the focus point over your subject and then let the camera focus for you.
With Single-Point AF you can do what's know as focus and recompose. You can keep your focus point at the centre of your sensor/screen, frame your subject at the centre and let the camera focus. Then feel free to recompose the photo whilst still holding the shutter button half-pressed maintaining focus.
Continuous AF: Dynamic Motion Tracking
Perfect for fast-moving subjects and action scenes, continuous AF is your camera's dynamic dance partner, always on the move to keep up with fast-paced action. Whether it's a sprinting athlete, a playful pet, or a bustling street scene, Continuous AF continuously adjusts focus to track moving subjects. It's like choreographing a vibrant dance routine where the camera ensures your subjects remain tack-sharp, allowing you to capture the energy and dynamism of the moment. This mode is a go-to for sports, wildlife, or any scenario where your subjects are in constant motion. You usually pair continuous AF with burst shooting so you can capture as many images of the moment and have a higher chance of having some in full focus.
Tiny curious red robin.
Continuous AF mode made sure I could capture many photos of this little cute robin bobbing up and down the mossy stone fence. All I had to do is keep it in my viewfinder and press the shutter button.
Tripods: Steadfast Support
Photography often involves capturing moments with precision, and that's where tripods step into the limelight. A tripod is like the loyal assistant that stands by your camera, offering stability and certainty.
One of the primary reasons to use a tripod is to eliminate camera shake, especially in low-light conditions or when working with longer exposure times.
In relation to focus, tripods play a crucial role in situations where you want to carefully compose your shots and make sure that you're not introducing any unwanted movement. Whether you're framing a breathtaking landscape, setting up for a family portrait, or diving into the world of macro photography, a tripod allows you to fine-tune your composition and focus with precision.
Pairing a tripod with a self-timer or remote control shutter button is like adding a touch of magic to your photographic toolkit. When using longer exposure times or capturing focus perfect photos, setting a self-timer allows you to trigger the shutter without introducing vibrations from manually pressing the button.
This dynamic duo of tripod and self-timer is indispensible - at least for the patient photographers among us.
The aurora spreading its glow through the sky, Iceland.
This picture wouldn't be possible without a tripod, my remote shutter and manual focus mode. All those 3 things made sure I can capture this moment.
- Depth of field (DoF) dictates what's in focus, determining what remains sharp and what turns beautifully blurred in a photo.
- Wide-open apertures (low f-stop) create a shallow DoF, isolating subjects, while smaller apertures (high f-stop) increase DoF, keeping more in focus.
- Auto-Focus (AF) offers quick precision, while Manual Focus (MF) allows creative control, useful in challenging conditions.
- Tripods eliminate camera shake, crucial in low light or longer exposures, enhancing stability for precise focus.
- Self-timers or remote controls, paired with tripods, avoid vibrations during longer exposures or precise focus moments.